Italian Whites

The idea behind M&S's new-ish Expressions range is, I think, to gather together some good-value single-variety wines under reassuringly simple labelling. There are, at last count, 8 wines in the stable, interestingly 6/2 in favour of whites. Representing the reds are a Carmenere (from, unsurprisingly, Chile's Central Valley) which I haven't tasted and a South African Grenache (from Swartland) which I have. Single-varietal Grenache at the value end of the market (I got my hands on this one for £9) can be simple red-fruited stuff that glides past without much fanfare. 

It often reminds me why darker and dangerous-er things like Syrah and Mourvèdre make such good blending partners. Grenache irons out their more outré tendencies (and also hides quite a lot of sins) and in turn is gifted depth, spicy black fruits and a whiff of mystery. I was, therefore, a little surprised when the M&S Grenache turned out to be a tad more interesting. It was indeed relatively light and packed with red berries but had an unusual floral top note and some herbal undertow that enlivened things quite considerably.

Pretty good value stuff.

The same goes, and with some Christmas bells on, for this Italian Ribolla. It's from the north-east of Italy, the region of Friuli Venezia Giulia (this IGP loses the 'Friuli', hence what you see on the label). It's the region tom which Italian's look when they want fresh, zippy, food-friendly whites. Fair to say that Ribolla Gialla isn't a household name (except perhaps if you live in said region or over the border in Slovenia) but it's a really old variety that has made its home locally for centuries.

There are some 'rediscovered' varieties that hit the shops that you wish had remained in obscurity. But this is definitely not one of them. Not in the form of this excellent-value wine, anyway. Attractive, middling lemon in colour, it's the warm-hearted fruit that first greets you on the nose: some yellow apple and a nod in the direction of lilting peachiness. Not packed to the rafters but solidly built and different enough to make an interesting diversion from, say, a Chenin or certain Chardonnays.

And it's £8 a bottle: at that price, really rather good.

It make a perfect 'kitchen wine', a bottle to open when making a risotto (one glass in the pan and another merrily consumed whilst stirring away). And one to pull out for fortification whilst writing the Christmas cards. But it can stretch a little further, too: to lighter fish dishes and maybe white meats. Well done Venezia Giulia; well done M&S.